The Camino de Invierno

The Camino de Invierno: history and characteristics

The Camino de Invierno is the least well-known pilgrimage route, but no less fascinating, among the Jacobean itineraries. Its name derives from the tradition that considers it a winter alternative to the French Way when the peaks of O Cebreiro become impassable due to snow and ice.

According to historians, this road has its roots in Roman times, created to connect the gold deposits of Las Médulas with the Via XVIII that crossed the Valdeorras region. A legacy of that era is the Montefurado tunnel, an impressive engineering work that can still be admired today. Over time, the route witnessed the passage of different peoples and even saw the advance of Napoleonic troops at the beginning of the 19th century. Its strategic importance was confirmed in 1883, when the railway linking Galicia to the rest of the Peninsula was inaugurated along this same route.

The charm of the Camino de Invierno lies in its extraordinary variety: it begins at Las Médulas, one of the most evocative cultural landscapes in Europe, and follows the natural course of the River Sil, the main tributary of the Miño, crossing scenery of remarkable beauty. Leaving behind the Valdeorras area, renowned for its fine wines, the itinerary enters the province of Lugo to reveal the southern part of the Ribeira Sacra. In this land, recognised since 2003 among the Routes of Interest of the Council of Europe, Romanesque art flourishes in countless churches and monasteries. The route then continues among the monumental treasures of Monforte de Lemos and the traditional architecture of Chantada, until reaching Alto do Faro; from this summit, the highest point of the route, the view extends over all four Galician provinces.

In Lalín, the Camino de Invierno joins the Vía de la Plata and continues together towards Santiago de Compostela. In total, approximately 262 kilometres are covered in 12 stages, where the silence and tranquillity that characterise this alternative route, far less travelled than the French Way, represent one of its main attractions. It is a path that offers the possibility of walking in solitude, rediscovering the deepest meaning of pilgrimage, far from the crowds that characterise other, more famous routes.

The Camino de Invierno route

The Camino de Invierno starts in the historic city of Ponferrada, in the heart of the Bierzo region of León, a city deeply linked to the Knights Templar, as evidenced by the majestic castle that dominates the historic centre. The route leaves the city by skirting Monte Pajariel and crosses a medieval bridge over the River Oza, which separates Toral on one side and Merayo on the other, reaching the Plaza del Cristo. Among vineyards and cherry orchards, the path advances towards Priaranza del Bierzo, passing through Villalibre de la Jurisdicción, with its parish church dedicated to Saint John the Baptist and the 17th-century Hermitage of the Vera Cruz, which stands right in the centre of the village.

Continuing through Borrenes and Carucedo, the route reaches Las Médulas, one of the most impressive Roman archaeological sites in Europe, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, where the reddish mountains bear witness to Roman ingenuity in gold extraction through a complex hydraulic system.

Leaving Las Médulas, the path marks the symbolic passage from Castile and León into Galicia by crossing the River Sil near Puente de Domingo Flórez. The route then follows the river in parallel through the Valdeorras area, famous for its Denomination of Origin wines, passing through characteristic villages such as Pumares and Sobradelo, with its Pontenova bridge featuring seven arches. The route then reaches O Barco de Valdeorras, the capital of the comarca, known for slate production and for its fine Godello and Mencía wines. The path continues through the vineyards of Vilamartín de Valdeorras towards A Rúa, where the Forum Gigurrorum is located, the oldest settlement in Valdeorras, and the church of San Esteban with its sculpture of Saint James the Pilgrim.

Following the right bank of the Sil, the path enters the province of Lugo through the municipality of Quiroga. It passes through Montefurado, famous for the 2nd-century Roman tunnel used to divert the river for gold extraction, one of the finest examples of Roman mining engineering in Galicia. The landscape becomes enriched by the vineyards and olive groves of the Ribeira Sacra, where heroic viticulture clings to the steep slopes descending towards the river, a territory recognised in 2003 by the Council of Europe as a Route of Interest. Passing through small rural villages such as Nocedo, O Carballo de Lor and A Pobra do Brollón, the route reaches Monforte de Lemos, one of the most significant centres along the path, with its rich cultural heritage that includes the Convent of the Poor Clares and the Parador. The monumental heart of the city, with the Palace of the Counts of Lemos and the Church of San Vicente del Pino, dominates from the top of a hill and houses the Ribeira Sacra Wine Centre.

The route continues through Chantada, a town with numerous wineries offering visits and tastings, and then climbs towards the sanctuary of Nosa Señora do Faro, a panoramic viewpoint from which, on clear days, all four Galician provinces can be seen. Crossing Rodeiro and the heart of the Deza comarca, through eucalyptus forests, green meadows and small rural hamlets such as Penerbosa, Ponte Pedroso and Silleda, the route reaches Lalín, where the Camino de Invierno joins the Vía de la Plata coming up from southern Spain. From this significant point, the two routes continue together towards Santiago. The path continues through the Galician rural landscape, characterised by forests, pastures and traditional architecture with characteristic stone houses and hórreos, the typical raised granaries. The final part of the route gradually enters the metropolitan area of Santiago de Compostela, culminating in the emotional arrival at Praza do Obradoiro, in front of the majestic Baroque façade of the Cathedral, where the relics of the Apostle James rest, marking the completion of a journey that is not only physical but deeply spiritual and transformative.

How to get to Ponferrada

To start the Camino de Invierno, it is necessary to reach Ponferrada, located in the province of León, in the region of Castilla y León. Below are the main transport options:

By Plane

The closest airport to Ponferrada is León Airport, with daily flights from Madrid and Barcelona. From the airport, it is possible to take a taxi to the centre of León (approximately 14 euros) and from there continue by other means of transport to Ponferrada. The distance between León and Ponferrada is about 114 kilometres. An alternative is Madrid-Barajas Airport, Spain’s main international hub, well connected with all major European cities. From Madrid, Ponferrada can be reached by train or bus.

By Train

From Madrid, there are daily trains to Ponferrada departing from Chamartín station. Prices and schedules can be checked on the Renfe website. The journey takes approximately 4–5 hours depending on the type of train. From other Spanish cities such as León, Valladolid or Ourense, there are rail connections to Ponferrada, although they may require changes.

By Bus

There are buses from various Spanish cities that arrive daily at Ponferrada bus station. From Madrid’s bus station (Estación Sur), direct buses to Ponferrada depart with several companies. The journey takes approximately 4–5 hours.

When to walk the Camino de Invierno

Despite its name, the Camino de Invierno can be walked throughout the year. Each season offers different characteristics:

Spring (March–May): Probably the best period, with mild temperatures, green and lush landscapes, and blooming fields. Days become longer and rainfall, although present, is not excessive.

Summer (June–August): Temperatures can be high, especially in the Sil valley and lower areas. It is important to carry sun protection and drink plenty of water. The advantage is stable weather and long daylight hours.

Autumn (September–November): An excellent period, especially September and October. The autumn colours of forests and vineyards are spectacular. It is the grape harvest season, a perfect time to visit wineries.

Winter (December–February): As the name suggests, this is historically the period for which the route was conceived, as a winter alternative to the French Way. Temperatures are cool but generally higher than those of O Cebreiro. Snow is rare, except in higher areas. The atmosphere is more intimate and solitary, ideal for those seeking contemplation, although some services may be closed.

Practical advice for the pilgrim

Accommodation: The Camino de Invierno has a good network of albergues (pilgrim hostels), guesthouses and hotels. As it is less frequented than the French Way, availability issues are rare, except possibly during high season. It is nevertheless advisable to book in advance, especially in major towns such as Monforte de Lemos.

Pilgrim credential: It is necessary to obtain the pilgrim credential before starting the route. It can be obtained from Jacobean associations, parish churches or the main hostels in Ponferrada. Along the route, the credential must be stamped at least twice a day in order to obtain the Compostela upon arrival in Santiago.

Waymarking: The route is generally well marked with the classic yellow arrows and scallop shells indicating the Camino de Santiago. However, as it is less travelled than the French Way, signage may be less evident in some sections. It is useful to carry a guidebook or download GPX tracks onto your smartphone.

Why choose the Camino de Invierno

The Camino de Invierno is an ideal choice for those seeking a more authentic and less commercialised pilgrimage experience compared to the famous French Way. With its 262 kilometres, it offers the required distance to obtain the Compostela, but in an atmosphere of greater tranquillity and intimacy.

The lower number of pilgrims allows for frequent solitude, enjoyment of the silence of nature and the rediscovery of the contemplative dimension that is the very essence of pilgrimage. The crowds that characterise other routes, especially in the final 100 kilometres of the French Way, are absent, allowing for a deeper connection with oneself, with the landscape and with the spiritual meaning of the journey.

The landscapes crossed are of extraordinary beauty and variety: from the impressive Roman mines of Las Médulas to the deep canyons of the River Sil in the Ribeira Sacra, from terraced vineyards producing excellent wines to dense forests of oak and eucalyptus, from historic towns such as Monforte de Lemos to small rural villages where time seems to have stood still. The cultural heritage along the route is extremely rich: Romanesque churches, Benedictine monasteries, medieval bridges, Templar castles and wine museums follow one another, offering continuous opportunities for discovery. Galician gastronomy, with its traditional dishes and the wines of the Ribeira Sacra and Valdeorras, represents another element of great interest.

The Camino de Invierno is an experience aimed at those seeking a more intimate and personal pilgrimage, far from the most tourist-oriented routes, yet equally rich in history, nature, culture and spirituality. It is a journey that allows the discovery of the most authentic Galicia, that of small rural villages, living traditions, unspoilt nature and genuine, warm hospitality.